AIP Unscented Quart
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Determine the extent of contamination under the carpet and mark the area off with masking tape or with a contrasting color chalk. These areas are nearly always circular in shape, but the size of the areas will vary considerably, sometimes with puddles overlapping one another.
You should have ready a spray bottle of our Anti-Icky-Poo, a larger container of the same, and a shallow bowl in which to pour the Anti-Icky-Poo. Drawing the liquid from the bowl is the easiest method of filling the injector.
Assemble your Injector and draw the Anti-Icky-Poo through the needle into the syringe. Starting about four inches inside your markings, pierce the carpet backing with the needle and lift the tufts slightly with your other hand. Slide the needle in horizontally between the secondary backing and the top of the pad.
Push one ounce, or 30 cc's of Anti-Icky-Poo, into the void. Repeat the procedure each four to six Inches, grid fashion, throughout the contaminated areas until satisfied that you have adequately covered it all. You can expect that one ounce will cover four to six Inches in diameter depending on the density of the fabric and thickness of the pad. Generally, you will have to refill your injector many times. Using your spray bottle, cover the face yarns well and walk around on the entire treatment with your full weight in order to spread and squeeze in the Anti-Icky-Poo. When white foam from the Anti-Icky-Poo appears up through the carpet backing beneath your feet, you will know that you have achieved good penetration.
The best method for treating wood floors is what is known as the moistening method. Take a regular towel and get it wet with water so the towel is damp. Then puddle the Anti-Icky-Poo solution on the floor. Next take the wet towel and bunch it up into a ball and place it directly on top of the contaminated area. This will create a moisture shield so that the Anti-Icky-Poo solution will not evaporate too fast. As the moisture soaks into the wood it will give the Anti-Icky-Poo solution a medium in which to spread to the deeper parts inside the wood. Leave the towel on as long as possible (Ideally until the towel dries). However every floor is different and you do not want to cause any added structural damage to the floor with the moisture from the towel, so check the towel about once an hour and use your own judgment to make sure the moisture from the towel is not doing any damage to the finish or surface of the floor. Once again all floors are different and it is up to the consumer to use his own judgment as far as the length and moisture of the treatment goes.
For leather furniture please see leather treating. For wood furniture on vertical surfaces just spray the Anti-Icky-Poo solution directly on the surface. It might take multiple treatments depending on how far the contamination was allowed to soak in. Horizontal surfaces can be treated by the same means used to treat wood floors. For cloth furniture you can spray a generous supply of the Anti-Icky-Poo solution directly on the fabric and leave alone. If the contamination is horizontal on a cushioned part of the surface then injecting is recommended. If the cushions are removable, take off the outer covering and spray both the inside and outside of the cover. Next spray the cushion generously and work the product in like you would with a sponge. Place the cushion back in the cover and your done. You may need to retreat the outer surface as some of the urine evaporates through the cushion leaving a slight urine residue on the material. When working with couches or recliners you may need to turn the chair or couch on its side and pull the mesh off the bottom. Sometimes the urine will run down the cracks of the couch and soak into the frame structure of the furniture. You can spray the couch or chair very generously from underneath in order to treat any stray contamination that has soaked down through the cracks or cushions into the framing. If you do not want to take the bottom mesh off of the furniture you can pour the product down along the cracks to simulate the same path the contamination will have followed.
Perhaps the most difficult surface
to treat especially if the contamination has been there for a very long
time. It can be treated effectively but may require patience and perseverance.
Leather is not very porous and in many cases the contamination will have flowed right off the surface. In this case just spray Anti-Icky-Poo on the leather and your done. If you are treating a leather couch or chair then most likely the contamination has flowed off into the cracks also. Just lightly pour the product following the same path the contamination has taken allowing the Anti-Icky-poo to roll off into the cracks the same way. If the contamination has soaked into the couch or chair past the leather covering and you need to inject, try to inject into the seams. It is also recommended that you turn the chair or couch on its side, remove the bottom mesh or fabric and treat any areas that the urine might have dripped on or soaked into.
Caution: Because leather does not stretch like fabric does injecting will leave a hole in the leather!!!
To treat mattresses that have contamination on them first inject into the foam on the mattress injecting 30 cc every 6 inches in a grid like fashion. Then spray the mattress generously over the surface contamination while working the Anti-Icky-Poo solution in with your hands so that in is squeezed into the fabric. For blankets, sheets, drapes, sleeping bags and clothes, spray both inside and out generously with Anti-Icky-Poo solution, let sit for 3 to four days and wash normally. Sleeping bags might need two treating.
Hand made antiques are the most valuable of all area rugs. Originating in eastern cultures, these rugs, in a broad sense, are commonly known as "Orientals." Woven by hand with the assistance of crude looms, they were constructed primarily from dyed wool. Unlike modern colorfast dyes, those used in the antiques tend to be unstable and bleed easily when wetted.
"Color bleed" is a condition whereby one color migrates into another. Lignin, a natural dye exuding from the fabric may further complicate matters. Since wetting is essential for adequate cleaning, these rugs are a special challenge for those professionals who care for them.
In addition to wool yarns, some of the binding materials used in the weaves include cotton, silk and linen. Dyes used were primarily vegetable based, but included other experimental and exotic dyes, as well. The key here is that all of the materials used came from "natural" sources; the fabrics, dyes, etc., everything used in its manufacture were derived from any source readily available to its creators at the time.
Natural fibers used in the spinning of yarns are complex, each type having unique characteristics. These fibers are porous, or absorbent. All grew with a lumen, or hollowness; a natural fiber is constructed like a tube that is hollow on the inside. While the complex surface and twist of the yarn tend to hide dry particulate soiling, staining is more likely to occur when liquid soiling is taken into the lumen, then dries.
Immersion cleaning of wools is recommended as natural fabrics require thorough soaking in order to adequately flush the accumulated soils. Oriental rug cleaning professionals commonly use a water bath with a lowered pH. Acids added to the bath tend to freeze unstable dyes thereby reducing the risk of color bleed.
High alkalinity as found in dried urine increases the risk of dyes bleeding: a high pH, or alkaline condition, can more easily bleed the colors of these acid set dyes into surrounding areas. Dried urine becomes increasingly alkaline over a period of time and can cause "color bleed."
The following procedures and products are recommended for the treatment of urine contaminated "oriental" rugs (presuming the urine has thoroughly dried):
Following these procedures will leave your rug devoid of urine and smelling fresh once again.
Here's a tip from a customer. She spilt a full cup of coffee on her oatmeal colored carpet. She says "I sprayed the area liberally with Stain Remover, covered the whole area with an towel and then placed a heavy weight on top. I left it in place for about an hour and when I lifted the towel the whole stain had been sucked up into the towel."